Repair First: Our Rule
Here is something the replace-everything companies will not tell you: plenty of egress window problems are repairs, not replacements. A crank that stripped is a hardware swap. A sash that sticks is often a cleaning and adjustment. A small seal failure is a re-caulk. We built our approach on fixing what is actually broken — because a customer we save $3,000 today calls us for the next window tomorrow.
That said, we will not sell you a repair that will not hold. A rotted wood frame, a rusted-through steel frame, or a window that never met code in the first place — those are replacements. We tell you which one yours is during the free visit, with the reasons, so you can decide with real information.
The Repairs We Do Every Week
Stuck windows. The most common call. Paint, corrosion, swollen wood, or a failed crank keeps the window from opening — which means it is not an egress window at all. We free it, replace the failed hardware, and make sure it opens smoothly with one hand.
Leaking windows. Water at the sill after rain usually means failed caulk, bad flashing, or a well with no drainage pushing water against the frame. We reseal the window and, if the well is the real culprit, fix the drainage — because caulk over a flooding well is a temporary patch.
Broken cranks and hinges. Casement hardware wears out. We replace operators, hinges, and handles with matching parts and get the window swinging like new.
Fogged glass. A failed seal between the panes fogs the glass and kills the view. We replace the glass unit — not the whole window — when the frame is sound.
Rotted or rusted frames. Small spots get cut out and rebuilt; widespread rot or rust means replacement. We show you the difference on your window so you can see it yourself.
The Code Check on Every Repair
Every repair visit includes a code check: we measure the clear opening against the minimums — 5.7 square feet, 20 inches wide, 24 inches tall, sill under 44 inches. If your repaired window still does not meet code, we will tell you, because a smooth-opening window that is too small is still not an egress window. Sometimes the honest answer is a repair plus a slightly larger window — we quote both.
The Annual Once-Over: Five Minutes That Prevent Repairs
Most egress window repairs start as maintenance nobody did. Once a year — pick a mild Saturday in spring — give your windows this five-minute check. It prevents the majority of the repair calls we get.
Open every window. All the way, then close it. If one sticks, note it — a window that sticks a little this year seizes completely in two. A shot of silicone lubricant on the moving parts now beats a service call later.
Look at the seals. Run a finger along the caulk where the frame meets the wall. Cracked, peeling, or missing caulk is a fifteen-minute fix with a tube from the hardware store — or call us and we will handle it. Water gets in through failed caulk more than any other path.
Clear the well. Scoop out leaves, sticks, and anything else that collected. Check that the cover still fits snugly and lifts off easily. Make sure the ladder rungs are solid and the gravel floor is gravel, not mud.
Check the operation from inside. This is the important one. Stand in the room, in the dark if you want the real test, and open the window like it is an emergency. If anything confuses you — a tricky latch, a stiff crank, a screen that fights — fix it now, while it is calm. The window has one job, and this is the rehearsal.
Look for water signs. Stains on the sill, damp spots on the wall below the window, or a musty smell near the well all mean water is getting somewhere it should not. Catch it early and it is a small fix. Ignore it and it becomes our repair visit — which we are happy to do, but you would rather not need.
Do this every spring and your egress windows will outlast your memory of installing them. And if the once-over turns up something beyond a quick fix, you know who to call.
How It Works: Our Process
Step 1 — Free visit and diagnosis. We inspect the window, frame, opening size, seals, hardware, and well — and give you the honest repair-vs-replace verdict.
Step 2 — Written estimate. Parts and labor, itemized. If replacement makes more sense, we quote that too so you can compare.
Step 3 — Repair day. Hardware swapped, seals redone, sash freed and adjusted, glass replaced where needed. Most repairs finish in a few hours.
Step 4 — Test and measure. We open and close the window with you, verify the clear opening still meets the minimums, and check the well drainage while we are there.
Call (301) 679-9193 or send the form below for your free written estimate.